7 Mistakes Utah Homeowners Make with Basement Drywall (And How to Fix Them)
Utah basements present unique challenges that can turn a simple drywall project into a costly nightmare. Between our state's bone-dry climate, temperature swings, and the inherent moisture issues that come with below-grade spaces, there's a lot that can go wrong. We've seen these same mistakes over and over again in homes across the Salt Lake Valley, and the good news is they're all totally preventable.
Whether you're finishing your basement for the first time or fixing someone else's handiwork, avoiding these seven common pitfalls will save you time, money, and a whole lot of headaches down the road.
Using Regular Drywall Instead of Moisture-Resistant Products
The Problem: This is probably the biggest mistake we see. Standard drywall has a paper backing that becomes a mold magnet in basement environments. Even if your basement feels dry, humidity levels are naturally higher below grade, and that paper layer will eventually become a breeding ground for mold and mildew.
The Fix: Always use moisture-resistant or mold-resistant drywall in basements. Look for products specifically labeled as "below-grade" or "basement-grade." These boards use fiberglass or synthetic materials instead of paper, making them far more resistant to moisture damage. Yes, they cost a bit more upfront, but they'll save you from having to tear everything out and start over in a few years.
If you're in an area prone to flooding or have had water issues in the past, consider going with cement board or other inorganic materials that won't support mold growth at all.
Ignoring Utah's Bone-Dry Climate When Applying Joint Compound
The Problem: Here's something that catches a lot of Utah homeowners off guard: our incredibly low humidity causes joint compound to dry way too fast. This leads to cracking along seams, especially in newer homes throughout areas like Draper and the greater Salt Lake region. The compound doesn't have time to cure properly, so it shrinks and cracks.
The Fix: Work in smaller sections and apply thinner coats. Instead of trying to get everything perfect in one heavy application, plan on doing multiple thin layers. Keep your workspace as humid as possible while working: you can even use a humidifier in the room.
Allow each coat to dry naturally rather than trying to speed things up with fans or heaters. The extra time you spend on proper application will pay off with smooth, crack-free walls that stay that way.
Over-Screwing or Under-Screwing the Drywall
The Problem: We see this all the time: either screws driven so deep they break through the paper and weaken the drywall, or screws that barely catch, leaving panels loose and wobbly. Over-screwing creates weak spots that will crack and crumble over time, while under-screwing means your walls will shift, pop, and make noise.
The Fix: The sweet spot is driving screws just deep enough to create a slight dimple in the surface without breaking through the paper layer. The screw head should sit just below the surface: enough to fill with joint compound later, but not so deep that it compromises the drywall's integrity.
Space your screws properly too: typically 12 to 16 inches apart along the studs. And always pre-drill if you're working near edges to prevent cracking.
Skipping Adhesive and Relying Only on Fasteners
The Problem: Most DIYers just grab a box of screws and call it good, but they're missing out on a simple step that makes a huge difference in the final quality. Screws alone don't create the strongest possible bond between the drywall and the framing.
The Fix: Apply a continuous bead of construction adhesive to your studs before hanging the drywall. This creates a much stronger, more stable installation that's less prone to movement and cracking over time. The adhesive also reduces the number of fasteners you need, which means fewer potential weak spots.
Let the adhesive get slightly tacky before positioning your drywall: this gives you a few minutes to adjust positioning while still creating a strong bond.
Forgetting About Expansion and Temperature Changes
The Problem: Drywall expands and contracts with temperature changes, and basements can see pretty significant temperature swings throughout the year. If you install panels tight against each other with no room for movement, you're asking for cracks and warped walls down the road.
The Fix: Leave small expansion gaps between panels: about 1/8 inch is usually plenty. These gaps will be covered by your joint compound and tape anyway, so they won't be visible in the finished wall. But they'll prevent the drywall from buckling when it expands.
Pay special attention to areas where the drywall meets the foundation walls or ceiling. These are high-stress areas where movement is most likely to cause problems.
Rushing Through Taping and Joint Compound Application
The Problem: This is where a lot of DIY projects fall apart. Poor taping technique, applying joint compound too thick, or not taking the time to do multiple coats results in walls that look obviously amateur: visible seams, bubbling tape, uneven surfaces, and joints that crack over time.
The Fix: Slow down and do it right. Start with a thin layer of joint compound over the seam, then press your tape into it and smooth out any air bubbles with your knife. Apply another thin coat over the tape, let it dry completely, then sand it smooth.
Plan on at least three coats for most joints: the first to embed the tape, the second to cover it, and the third to feather the edges. Each coat should be wider than the last, creating a gradual transition that disappears into the wall surface.
For small holes and dings, use spackle instead of joint compound: it's lighter and easier to work with for minor repairs.
Installing Drywall Over Existing Problems
The Problem: This is the mistake that leads to the most expensive repairs later. We see homeowners install beautiful new drywall over foundation cracks, active water leaks, inadequate insulation, or structural issues. The drywall might look great initially, but those underlying problems will eventually show through: and when they do, you're looking at tearing everything out and starting over.
The Fix: Address any and all moisture, structural, or insulation issues before you hang a single piece of drywall. Check for foundation cracks and seal them properly. Fix any plumbing leaks, even minor ones. Make sure your drainage systems are working correctly.
If you've had water issues in the past, consider installing a drainage system or waterproofing before finishing the space. It's much cheaper to handle these issues now than to deal with mold, rot, or structural damage later.
